Bartın

As our boat slowly cut its way through the still waters of the river, the egrets on the bank spread their wings and took to the air. We were making our way up the Bartın River from its estuary on the Black Sea to the town of the same name. Weeping willows bent towards the green water, and grey mullet leapt into view and splashed back again. I whispered to them the ancient name of Parthenios, but received no reply. So who was to tell the story of Bartın? The boat builders hard at work on the rib cages of half-finished fishing boats; the women selling their wares in Garıla Market; the old houses filled with such nostalgic memories of childhood; or the young girls working their embroidery at the windows?
A large elderly boat coming in the other direction grumbled to itself, 'Who but I can describe Bartın? I who know all the difficulties of both sea and river, land and men!' True, but we were eager to get on to the Orduyeri Bridge, and there mingle with the townsfolk and explore the streets.
Flower gardens, women rolling out pastry, cats asleep on roofs, dilapidated wooden houses resolved to stay on their feet, and memories awaited us there.
The Ottoman houses of Bartın, with their lace curtains at the windows, are the last representatives of the past. Within, trousseau chests contain the cloths embroidered with sequins known as çatkı worn by young girls at weddings, handwoven undershirts known as göynek, embroidered yellow waistcoats and other treasured items. Some handcrafts have died out, but the so-called 'broken wire work' of this region is still very much alive. This embroidery is worked with silver wire and coloured silks. In the province of Bartın woodworking of all kinds used to be among the principal occupations.

Linden, boxwood, and walnut were sawn, carved and shaped into boats, ships, houses, carved shutters and ceilings, and the 17th century writer Evliya Çelebi records that galleons were built here. Even today boat building remains a flourishing trade at Bartın, Kurucaşile, Tekkeönü, Kapısuyu and Amasra.
The centre of Bartın was bustling with shoppers and tradesmen. People were quenching their thirst at the fountain built in 1912 by the sea captain Karakaşoğlu Hacı Arif Kaptan. Known as Kavşak Suyu, this spring water is renowned for its fine flavour. On Tuesdays and Fridays women from the locality set up their stalls and sell home-grown vegetables and fruit, milk and home-made yoghurt at the Garıla or Women's Market. Historic buildings in the town include the old two-storey stone han with 18 rooms, known as Taşhan, where merchants transacted business in Ottoman times, and the later Dervişoğlu Han, built in 1897. The latter is a red painted building which has recently been restored.
Both these hans now house restaurants. The Ministry of Culture and Provincial Cultural Office have launched a restoration programme for the provincsei historic buildings, including the castle walls and church in the nearby town of Amasra. A museum is now being established in the same town, and a local beauty spot, Ulukaya Falls, is now lit up at night. Encouraging local awareness of the provincsss natural and historic heritage is a primary aim of the officsg work.
Amasra, named after an ancient princess, is at least as famous as Bartın itself, and attracts many visitors at weekends. This lovely small town, with its small harbour, Kuşkayası Monument, and city walls, is also renowned for its fish restaurants. During the summer months the beaches of Çakraz, Akkonak, Göçkün and Cambu between Amasra and Kurucaşile, and to the west between Bartın and Zonguldak the beaches of İnkumu, Güzelcehisar, Mogada and Kızılkum are favourite spots.
On fine evenings people drive out to İnkumu Beach or flock to the tea garden in Amasra to watch the sunset, as the golden ball of the evening sun descends towards the horizon.
Over half of the province is thickly forested, the most beautiful woodland scenery reputedly being at Ulus. In autumn strings of peppers are hung up on the cottage walls to dry and mushrooms spring up in abundant diversity after rainfall. In spring the place of mushrooms is taken by flowers, and the air fills with the sound of bees humming, birds singing, and herdsmen whistling. The Black Sea also undergoes dramatic changes from season to season, the fierce waves of winter making way for a more gentle character in summer, as the water laps beneath the rocks. In the hot summer months many people stay in mountain huts on the high pastures of Arıt and Uluyayla, enjoying the fresh mountain air, fast running streams, and butterflies winging their way over the green grass.
The cave of Gürcüoluk, with its many stalactites, stalagmites and galleries, at the village of Karakaçak near Amasra is another sight which attracts curious visitors.
The people of Bartın have a saying that anyone who has once drunk Kavşak Water can never drag themselves away. Certainly we regretted that the time had come for us to go. We paid one last visit to the elderly boat we had passed on arrival. It seemed to be humming a folk song to itself: 'Can we pass through the strait? / Is to wander our fate? / Wipe your tears away / Reunited I hope we may.'

* Nezahat Turkan is a freelance writer